Chapter 2

Beyond these there were the graciously proportioned streets, les grands boulevards. Yet I discovered that, somehow, it was actually the small streets, the quaint cul-de-sacsand small courtyards, all with burgeoning verdure, which made the deepest impression.

It came to me at some point, as I wandered these leafy places, that something inside me, something that had been asleep, had woken up. It was like I had fallen in love with life again—without ever having realized I had fallen out of love in the first place. The Parisians were somewhat aloof. I had been warned about this, and didn’t mind—since my French was pretty limited. In fact, it was easy to strike up conversations—usually with other tourists sitting at adjacent tables in the cafés. Even before they spoke it was easy to identify them: maps, cameras, and a sort of eager-eyed appreciation of their surroundings.