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The reason those people were fervently competing in paddling speed is that there's an unwritten rule in surfing: the first person who occupies a good position and stands up gets the right of way, and everyone else must back off and wait for the next wave.
If you still stand up after someone else has done so, you'll be scorned or even cursed at by others.
That's not only considered unsportsmanlike, but it's also very dangerous, because if any accident happens, the wave-stealer must bear all the consequences.
Indeed, the few who had chased after the previous wave all stopped once they saw someone standing up.
Despite feeling somewhat disheartened, they had no choice but to wait for the next wave to come.
After a while, several more waves rolled in, and different individuals caught the take-off spot, enjoying the thrill of battling the sea waves.